The Great White Way

Once known as The Great White Way, the road we know today as White Pole Road has quite a history. July 20, 2014 will mark the 100 year anniversary of the road, the first of its kind in Iowa- river to river. Long before the days of high speed interstate travel, roads like this were busy with travelers, a town every several miles and loads of sights to see along the way.

Today's White Pole Road is vastly different from the road of 100 year ago. Back then the road was mostly dirt, and not the easiest way to travel during snowy or rainy times. It was maintained by local farmers who dragged and smoothed the surface with pretty primitive equipment.  But as cars became increasingly more popular, people demanded a safe and convenient way to travel and so......the road began to evolve.

As one of the state's most well-traveled roadways, towns and businesses sprouted up all along the road. Restaurants, service stations and motels were kept busy by travelers. But like everything else, progress has a way of changing things, and when Interstate 80 was completed in 1965, the popularity of this quaint stretch of road waned as travelers opted for the higher driving speeds, no stop signs, and no slowing to go through the towns. Businesses suffered, towns lost population, and the American vacation changed.

Today, the White Pole Road is 26 miles long, beginning just east of Dexter and ending in Adair. The towns of Stuart, Menlo and Casey are along the route. The white poles remain, even if they are much more modern. Each town has so much history in it's stories, from Bonnie and Clyde to the first Jesse James train robbery, what today is a sleepy cluster of rural towns was once a busy and bustling part of the state.

Dexter-  The town of Dexter lies just inside the Dallas County line. Today's Dexter is very different from the old Dexter. A large canning factory and a college were once part of life here. Today it's very much a typical farm community. Dexter is probably most well known for it's 1933 shootout with the Barrow gang and Bonnie and Clyde. The gang hid out in a field just north of town and sought help from the town doctor to help with wounded members. In 1948 Dexter held a National Plowing Match during which President Harry Truman visited and addressed the crowds. Recent excavation work at that site unearthed parts of the scoreboard and other items. Dexter has a museum that houses many items and shares the history of this little town.

One of Dexter's moved beloved businesses is the world famous Drew's Chocolates. Truly hand-dipped chocolates are hard to find in this day of automated factories. Every single piece of candy at Drew's is crafted by hand in the decades-old family-owned shop. They also carry ice cream seasonally, serve lunches, and several Iowa wines are available. This is a MUST SEE on your visit to Dexter!

Stuart- Four miles along White Pole Road brings you into Stuart. Stuart is unique in that it sits partially in Guthrie County and partially in Adair County. Founded in the 1860s by Charles Stuart, who established the town along the railroad. Stuart shares a little in Dexter's history with Bonnie and Clyde. The former Stuart Bank was robbed by Bonnie and Clyde and the Barrow gang on April 16, 1934. Many of Stuart's residents are employed at the nearby egg farms and each year the town celebrates Good Egg Days in June.

On the eastern edge of Stuart is a business that's so much fun to visit- it has something for everyone- Carver's Ridge. What started as a landscape business has evolved into custom engraving- from boulders to small rocks to baking dishes and stemware, and a unique and inviting retail shop packed with beautiful carved and etched items, gourmet foods and Iowa wines. Handmade jewelry fills a display in the center of the room, which is beautifully decorated with the most amazing carved/etched items- wine stoppers with an initial carved in the rock. Wine glasses with a monogram or clever saying. Baking and casserole dishes that are personalized or simply say "Baked With Love." Besides the retail store, Carver's Ridge also offers painting classes throughout the year, where guests are treated to refreshments, a memento etched glass and create a beautiful canvas painting to grace their wall at home!

Also located in Stuart is the historic All Saints Center, which was destroyed by an arsonist on October 22, 1995. It took several years but the townspeople raised the funds to restore the building, and it now serves as a community center, hosting meetings, weddings and other occasions. 

Menlo- Travel about 5 more miles to the west and you reach the little town of Menlo. The White Rose Gasoline attendant stands in all his neon glory, welcoming you to Menlo. 

Menlo was founded in 1869 along the railroads but never reached the population as nearby Stuart. Today Menlo is a very small community with a cafe, and a nearby ethanol plant and egg farms, providing employment. Menlo is home to one of the region's only Christmas Parades, complete with floats. The Menlo Cafe was a great place to stop for lunch- the cafe, open for breakfast and lunch only, is a busy place around the noon hour! People from the neighboring towns make their way over for lunch specials, homemade desserts, and a bit of gossip with the locals.

Casey- Also straddling the Adair/Guthrie county line is the little town of Casey. Well known for it's multitude of antique shops and Veterans' Park, Casey was founded on January 12, 1898 by an Irish railroad foreman.

Adair- And finally, out road trips end in Adair. Named after General John Adair, who served during the War of 1812, Adair also has a very interesting past. On July 21, 1878 the first successful train robbery was committed in Adair by Jesse James and the James-Yeager gang. They derailed a train, killing the engineer and made off with $3,000. 

Just off of the town's main street is the primitive jail building from many decades ago. Hopefully the current owner has plans to restore this important piece of history. It would make a cute location for pictures- throw the kids in there and take their picture peering through the bars!

Known as "The Happiest Town on Earth" and home to the famous Smiley Face water tower, the town was nearly hit by an F5 tornado on June 27, 1953, which would have been devastating to the community.

The White Pole Road is a great destination for a day trip. You can easily spend a day stopping in the local businesses and chatting with residents. Everyone has a story to tell. Restaurants, taverns, antique shops, gift shops, parks, camping and motels offer places to go and places to stay. Come take a ride on the Great White Way.

Stuart, Iowa- perfect for a weekend getaway

Straddling the Adair and Guthrie county lines is the cute little town of Stuart. In a part of the state known for egg farms, it's no surprise that you are greeted as you enter town with a colorful sign-Stuart, Home to 1600 Good Eggs and a Few Stinkers.

Summer in Stuart is a busy time for the local folks, with a new aquatic center and weekly farmers market, there is always something to do during the summer, which is highlighted by the annual Good Egg Days. Like all the small towns across the state, Stuart's annual festival represents a theme unique to the town and offers entertainment and fun for all ages. Parades, contests, loads of food vendors, street dance and live music make the weekend-long event something special.

Stuart is also home to the historic Hotel Stuart. After sitting untouched for many years the hotel is under major restoration. It's exciting to drive by and see the changes taking place. Across the street from the hotel is the old Rock Island Depot, originally built in 1879, also under restoration.

Iowa's famous White Pole Road passes through Stuart and is to many the unofficial county line, with Guthrie County to the north and Adair County to the south. White Pole Road holds many events of it's own including an annual Tractor Ride and Corvette Club. White Pole Road was one of the original transcontinental roads, from Cape Cod, Maine, to Long Beach, California, and was known as "The Great White Way."

You wouldn't think it to drive through these quiet little Iowa towns but decades ago many incredible events took place. Criminal events! Stuart is home to the last bank robbed by Bonnie and Clyde on April 16, 1934. The building still stands and has been home to many tenants over the years, from shops to salons to the former police station. 

Not far from downtown Stuart is the historic All Saints Center, which was severely damaged by an arsonist in 1995. Although considered a total loss, the community came together to support rebuilding efforts and restoration was completed. Today the center serves as a community center with meeting space, a beautiful wedding chapel, and is a true testament to what can can happen when a community comes together. The foundation which supports the Center made a video tribute to the rebuilding effort and can be seen by clicking here.

Just a few miles north of Stuart is the Dale Valley Winery. The winery is housed in the old school house from the Guthrie County ghost town Dale City. It was moved to it's current location, loving restored, and become a beautiful place to spend a sunny afternoon with a bottle of wine on the deck. Every summer the winery is home to Winestock, a day-long music festival with live bands, wonderful wines and lots of vendors. At harvest time, the winery invites guests to come help with the harvest and enjoy the day with friends and wine lovers.

Back to downtown Stuart you will find lots of entertainment. Several restaurants are open, the local small town taverns, and several unique businesses you might not find just anywhere.

One of the most unique businesses in Stuart is Carver's Ridge. Originally launched as a landscaping business, and later evolving in carving boulders, Carver's Ridge now features a showroom/retail store where you can browse for unique gifts and locally made products. The shop hosts events throughout the years such as open houses and often hosts giveaways on their Facebook page.

Turtle Star Studio is another one of a kind business. Owned by artist/sculptor Lynsi Passuti, Turtle Star Studio features some of Lynsi's beautiful clay works, planters, vases, wall art- lots to choose from. She is often participating in art shows around the region and sells her unique items in local businesses as well. I spied several beautiful pieces at Dale Valley Winery on my last visit there.

Stuart residents don't have to make a trip to the city for night time entertainment either. The Stuart Bowl and Traditions Sports Bar and Grill is a great place for leagues and families to get together and have some food, fun, and good times, and one of Stuart's most valuable businesses is our Stuart Fremont Theater. No fighting the crowded parking lot, or waiting in line for hours to see that midnight showing. The Fremont is a beautiful, modern theater, recently upgraded to the new digital format and carries first run movies that change every week. Weekends feature matinees for families and yes, they even opened at midnight for some of those huge blockbusters! 

No visit to Stuart would be complete without a visit to the Stuart Speedway. This popular quarter-mile dirt track is a favorite of drivers from all over Iowa, packing the house on Sunday nights. This IMCA sanctioned track is home to hobby stock, sport modified, stock car, modified, mod light, mini sprint, late model, sport compact, outlaw front wheel drive, and enduro class racing. Each week hosts a different six classes. 

The Stuart Speedway is also home to "Rocktastic", an annual summer concert festival featuring nationally known classic rock bands and local rock bands.

With plenty of hotel rooms, and camping at nearby Nation's Bridge Park, Stuart is a wonderful choice for a weekend getaway this summer. Close enough to have access to city life, yet filled with small town charm.

The Wallace Centers of Iowa

When leaving a legacy, some families really know how to do it BIG TIME. The Wallace Family would be one for those families. Who are they? Why should we be interested? I am going to borrow some information from the website www.wallace.org to help start off our experience at this wonderful place in rural Adair County.

Four generations of Henry Wallaces have profoundly influenced the development of American agriculture and agricultural policy. The impact of their activities has reached every corner of the world.

The first Henry WallaceThe first Henry Wallace came to Iowa in 1862 as a Presbyterian minister, and co-founded  Wallaces' Farmer with his sons Henry C. and John in 1895. Through this publication, he became known as "Uncle Henry", helped establish Iowa State College as a premier agricultural research institution, and promoted the Agricultural Extension Service. When asked to serve as U.S. Secretary of Agriculture, Wallace deferred to his friend James "Tama Jim" Wilson. He died in 1916. 

Henry C. WallaceSon Henry C. Wallace was a professor at Iowa State College, editor of Wallaces' Farmer, co-founder of the American Farm Bureau Federation, and longtime secretary of the Corn Belt Meat Producers' Association. Henry C. worked hard to help farmers organize in associations and cooperatives. He served as Secretary of Agriculture for two presidents from 1921 until his unexpected death following surgery in 1924. 

Henry A. WallaceGrandson Henry A. Wallace graduated from Iowa State College and went to work for Wallaces' Farmer. In high school, Henry A. was already researching and breeding corn. He founded the Hi-Bred Corn Company in 1926, now known as Pioneer, A DuPont Company. Henry A. served as Depression-era U.S. Secretary of Agriculture for President Franklin D. Roosevelt from 1933-1940, implementing revolutionary farm policies and programs for resource conservation and economic stabilization, many of which have remained in place into recent times. From 1953 to 1996, programs he designed to assure family-scale farmers support of commodity prices in the marketplace through supply management and on-farm grain storage were eventually weakened or phased out. Parallel to this has been a dramatic consolidation of farm units and a massive out-migration of population from America’s rural landscapes into urban settings. As Vice President from 1940-1944, Wallace traveled widely. He became Secretary of Commerce until 1946, and then ran for president in 1948. After his defeat, he retired from politics to write, travel, give speeches and farm. He died of amyotrophic lateral sclerosis in 1965. 

Henry B. (H.B.) WallaceGreat-grandson Henry B. (H.B.) Wallace did for chickens what his father had done for corn. In 1939 he took over the fledgling hybrid poultry division of Pioneer Hi-Bred. His efforts icreased egg production and industrialized the egg and broiler business. The pouktry division became Hy-Line Internation, the world's oldest layer genetics company. H.B. died in 2005.  

Now THAT is a family legacy! And lucky for us that legacy continues today at the Wallace Country Life Center nearby Orient, in Adair County. The Country Life Center is a self-sustaining farm and restaurant that showcases seasonal produce grown on the farm. Their goal is to utilize and highlight sustainable agriculture, supporting local food growers and providing an opportunity for education about farming and sustainability.

Also at the Country Life Center is The Gathering Table restaurant, a very unique restaurant experience led by Chef Katie Routh. The menu changes depending on the season and what produce is available, making each experience unique and surprising. Chef Katie also holds cooking classes at different times throughout the year. At our visit I got Sarah to agree to try lunch there. The menu was very unique for a small town. Sarah chose pork and veggie meatballs, made from Bridgewater Farms ground pork, roasted eggplant and tomatoes, served with basil Israeli cous cous.

I chose the Beef and Vegetable Tacos. Braised Cory Farms sirloin tip, shredded, with salsa verde, cilantro lime slaw and pico de gallo. I LOVED the food, the presentation and creative use of ingredients. VERY unexpected in a rural setting.

We also sampled the dessert offerings that day, Sarah had an ice cream filled cookie with a chocolate and caramel sauce and I had a chocolate cake with apricot sauce, almonds and whipped cream.

After dessert we thought we better walk off some of those calories! The Center is a large complex of trails and interesting artworks and restored prairie, fish ponds, wild flowers and loads of beautiful Iowa countryside.

We walked around the working farm gardens as well and got to see the people actually hand weeding and tending to the vegetables that are grown for use in the restaurant and as part of the Center's CSA program. 

The Center is very involved in community activities as well, providing education, entrepreneurial guidance, and standing out as a leader in sustainable farming. They also have rental facilities for meetings, weddings and other activities. Several bed and breakfasts are in the area as well the historic http://www.hotel-greenfield.com/ and would make a great overnight visit to rural Iowa!

August 2013 mmc

Off we go.....into the wild blue yonder.......

Aviation is fascinating to me. From the silly commercials on tv showing the earliest attempts at flight to modern military aircraft, I have always had a love for flying. Even as a little girl when we first moved to Des Moines from Minnesota, we lived near the airport and I loved watching the planes fly over our house. I don't get to fly very much but just getting to see planes in museums and airshows makes me happy. So I was so excited to discover that right here, in Adair County, we have the Iowa Aviation Hall of Fame !

It was a baking hot day when Sarah and I made our way around Adair County checking out the interesting places to visit. The aviation museum was one of our first stops early in the day, but an airplane hangar is not a cool place by any means, and bless his heart, the kind gentleman who gave us the tour that day was a real trooper. I was ready to DIE and he was ready to talk all day !

We started off by me just standing in awe of the A7 Corsair mounted outside the building. Growing up in Des Moines the Air National Guard stations and the "Blue Lights" viewing area in a huge part of my childhood. So to get to see this wonderful piece of Iowa military history and actually lay my hands on it......well, it was quite an experience.

Entering the museum, where it was nice and cool, there were loads and loads of interesting items on display. Flight suits, news clippings, photographs, articles in frames. Military and civilian planes and stories and articles of all kinds. Even the newspaper articles about the plane crash that took the life of Buddy Holly and several other musicians was there. 

After looking at many displays in the museum building we were taken on a tour of the hangar. Wow, just wow. So many amazing planes, gliders, engines, engine parts- I don't even think I can list everything we saw!! You really need to experience this amazing place yourself to appreciate the pristine quality of the planes, all of which actually flew into the airport and drove into the hangar and very likely can still fly.

There is no way I can remember everything he told us about each plane- there was just so much information. We just enjoyed story after story and admired the aircraft of days gone by. 

They have a full listing of all the aircraft in the hangar on their website, http://www.flyingmuseum.com/Aircraft.aspx, some of which are the last or one of the last two in existence. 

We posed for pictures with different equipment. Sarah took the seat at the controls of a DC10. 

We both decided to have a silly pic taken with a cartoon character. It was great fun.

On the north end of the hangar is the Hall of Fame. In this room you will find framed photos of the various flying pioneers with an Iowa connection, from the earliest years of flight to astronauts. 

The USAF SR71 Blackbird- my favorite of all military aircraft, and they were based
at the air force base we lived nearby in England years ago. I got to see them fly everyday.

Display cabinets line the walls with donated collections of memorabilia, and a wall of glass blocks is etched with the names of the many donors that helped make this unique attraction possible.

The Iowa Aviation Museum is really a true treasure to have here in our area. It's a quick drive from Des Moines, and the city of Greenfield offers lots of options for a lunch or dinner to go along with your road trip. This truly is a must-see destination.

August 2013 mmc

Patriotism, one Iowan's perspective

Patriotism is a big subject during these trying times for our nation. Many people tend to think only the bigger cities have monuments dedicated to our fallen, current and past veterans, and future military men and women, and that the small towns are just farm towns. In Iowa, they couldn't be more mistaken.

Just off of Interstate 80 at the Greenfield, IA exit is one such monument, one that is carefully, thoughtfully and with great dedication, repainted every year before Memorial Day to honor our military heroes. I'm sure the artist has been interview many dozens of times, and told his story many dozens of times, but it's one of such dedication and humbleness that it should be told again and again.

Inspired by the movie "Saving Private Ryan" the artist, Ray "Bubba" Sorensen felt a need to honor our veterans in his own personal way. As a very gifted artist, he does just that, each year starting over and repainting most of the Freedom Rock with a new theme honoring our servicemembers and their sacrifice.

The helicopter side of the Rock will never be repainted, as the green paint contains
the cremains of several Vietnam veterans who made the ultimate sacrifice.

He does this not because he has to, or is paid to, but because it is his way of giving back. The Freedom Rock has become such a dear Iowa treasure, now people donate to help cover the costs of materials needed to complete the new murals each year. That's just how we do things here in the midwest, we support one another. 

Adair County's wonderful treasure has caught on! In the last year a program has been launched in which each of Iowa's 99 counties can raise the funds and provide a boulder and location for their own Freedom Rock, which Ray will travel to, and complete. Iowa Senator Charles Grassley and journalist Kyle Munson were important leaders in getting this program off the ground.

Family and friends of those who served often place memorial items
on a pole next to the Rock. It's hard to put into words the sense of loss.

You might also notice many of the small towns in West Central Iowa have large murals in their towns, usually a city park or the side of a very visible building. Ray paints murals all over the country now but has not forgotten the humble beginning in Iowa......that all started with a rock, a dream, and a few cans of paint.......

You can learn more about the Rock, see galleries of past murals and much more at www.thefreedomrock.com

August 2013, mmc